09/10/2026
Cool
🌾 There is a grain still growing in Orkney that has been sown on the same ground since before the Vikings arrived, and almost nobody outside the islands has tasted it.
It is called bere. Say it like bear. It is a six row barley, one of the oldest cereals still farmed in Britain, and it is not grown because it is better. It is grown because it can be grown there at all.
Bere ripens extraordinarily fast. Sown late in a cold northern spring, it will come in ahead of ordinary barley, which matters enormously on ground where the growing season is short and the harvest weather is a gamble. It tolerates thin, wind burned, salt touched soils that would defeat a modern variety. Orkney farmers have a phrase for how quickly it goes, and it comes up from the ground so fast that the old accounts talk about it as if it were in a hurry.
The meal it makes is dark, greyish brown and nutty, with a slightly savoury bitterness at the back of it, quite unlike the sweetness of oats. Ground at Barony Mill in Birsay, one of the last working water mills in the islands, it goes into bere bannocks, cooked flat on a girdle over the fire rather than baked in an oven, because a great many island houses had no oven.
They are made fast and eaten fast. Meal, a little raising, buttermilk, worked lightly and turned on the hot girdle. They go hard within hours, which is why they were made fresh every day and never in advance. Split them while warm, put salted butter and crowdie or a piece of cheese in, and you have exactly what an Orkney family ate for a very long time.
Bere fed people through centuries when the ships did not come and the grain did not arrive. It went into ale and into wh**ky. It was rent, and it was survival, and it was ordinary.
It very nearly disappeared in the twentieth century. It is still here because a small number of Orkney farmers refused to stop sowing it.
Some things survive simply because somebody kept doing them. 🧈