03/09/2026
A little appreciation for Nagatani Soen 🍃
Before Nagatani Soen (永谷宗円), much of Japan’s leaf tea was made by pan-firing to stop the oxidisation. In 1738, Soen developed a new method: steaming fresh leaves, then carefully rolling and drying them by hand. The result was brighter, more fragrant and more refined — the foundation of the sencha we know today.
In November 2024, we visited Nagatani Soen’s old home in Uji-tawara, where our Kyoto tea supplier showed us around. The building displays the equipment used at the time to develop the sencha processing method. At the time, I was fascinated, but I don’t think I fully appreciated the significance of the place.
Then, in May this year I was in Uji again and had a go at temomi — hand-rolling of tea leaves.
It was only a little taste of the process, but it gave me a much greater appreciation for the skill and patience behind Japanese tea.
Two visits, almost two years apart, and a little more understanding each time.
A quiet thanks to Nagatani Soen, whose work helped shape Japanese sencha! 🍵
